Showing posts with label #greekfood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #greekfood. Show all posts

Monday, September 26, 2016

Day 6 Santorini

A lemon tree outside of my hotel room...

We got home at 7am.  I have not been out that late in years.  We watched the sunrise while smacking on McDonalds.  It was a crazy night but I'm glad we all had a blast.  I was worried I was going to sleep the day away, but luckily I got up at 12pm.  I hate feeling like I'm missing out, especially since I'm on vacation.  I threw on my bikini and swim coverup and headed to Noma.  I definitely needed some coffee.  Kostas was not there, but some of the staff said he was at the restaurant at 10am.  Unbelievable!!  I felt so out of it.  I sat for a while and messaged my friend in Italy to tell her my new plans.  Originally I was suppose to take another ferry out to Mykonos later on the day.  I had planned on staying for one night on Santorini.  When I was doing my research, for my trip I read blogs about Santorini being more laid back than Mykonos.  After what I experienced last night, I've learned my idea of "laid back" was much more different than theirs!  lol.  First of all, Santorini IS a relaxing island with beach restaurants and boutiques all over.  Fira is the main center of Santorini, and officially their "downtown" so I could understand it being more congested than other parts of the island.  I was very much surprised by the nightlife I encountered, so I knew if Mykonos was the main attraction of Greece, I would much rather go there with a group of friends like the ones I hung out the night before.  The problem was, obviously, my new found friends are working all day at the restaurant, and I would be alone in Mykonos not knowing anyone.  I told my friend I would stay one more day in Santorini and head out tomorrow to Bari Italy, where she would be waiting for me.  I knew Santorini had an airport and Bari was one hour away from me.  I would get my ticket tomorrow, but for now, let me explore Santorini one more day.
After my coffee, (and lots of water), a staff member at Noma walked me over to an available umbrella waiting for me at the beach.  This is the life!  I ran into the couple from Athens at their umbrella spot and we caught up on the wild evening we had shared.  I like them a lot.  They were much more mellow than the others from the group, which was good because they balanced things out.  If there were too many crazies I can't imagine what trouble we would have gotten into!  lol





Dark sand between my toes.  This is the life!

I relaxed on the beach and then joined the couple in the sea to cool off from the hot sun.  I asked them a bunch of questions about Athens, and other vacation spots like Croatia.  Since they're locals, it was interesting to hear their input on the other destinations nearby.  One thing that I've noticed about vacationing in Europe, people love to spend HOURS on the beach.  Now that I am an older woman, I try not to stay out in the sun too long.  I made my way to Ntomatini restaurant to have some lunch.  Since we ate terribly early in the morning, I skipped out on breakfast, but the sun made me hungry.  Ntomatini specializes in traditional seafood so I opted for the grilled calamari.  I enjoyed my lunch and talked to the father and daughter while I was there.  I grew tired again and figured I'll squeeze in a nap in before I ventured out on the island.  I usually set my alarm for an hour so I don't end up sleeping too long.  It makes me more groggy whenever I over sleep.


Healthy lunch with a side of fries...

After my nap I got ready to hit the town.  My main objective was to head to the other side of the island to Oia for the infamous sunset.  I was determined to get over there.  Upon reading on my trip to Santorini I found out there was a bus that would take you to Oia.  I went to Noma to have more coffee and saw the daughter from Ntomatini hanging out with the crew.  Kostas was still no where to be found.  I asked her where to catch the bus and she told me to walk down the beach and I should see the bus stop.
Well here is where the adventure begins!!  What I have learned from my travels is that sometimes things that seem easy, well, aren't.  I walked and walked, probably close to 15 minutes to an area that was closed off on the beach.  I put two and two together since I remembered from my shuttle bus coming in that the road is blocked off from traffic.  I looked around and saw some people standing around.  Santorini has posts and signs only in Greek, so a lot of times you have to figure it out yourself.  I saw a bus on a sign and knew I was suppose to be there, but wasn't sure.  The tourists standing around weren't very inviting but I managed to ask someone if this was the bus stop.  He mumbled yes so I waited with the rest of them.  Luckily I had some euro coins, but I wasn't sure how much this was going to cost me exactly.  One thing to remember in Europe is to have some loose change handy since they do not use credit cards like we do in the States.
A small group grew upon waiting and then I saw a charter bus on the horizon.  He was heading our way.  Whew!
A big, very intimidating bus clerk stepped out and yelled that this bus was going to Fira and to Fira only.  "If you want to go to Oia (pronounced Eee-yah by the way), you need to transfer at Fira!!"  He was so scary!  You did not want to mess with this guy!
Off we went.  I sat by the window and looked out while the bus driver took off.  Again we were going through narrow roads which made me nervous.  More stops were coming up and more people climbed in.  A good looking couple came on.  The guy sat next to me and his girlfriend sat behind him.  I heard them speak English very softy to one another with an accent so I felt relieved.  If anything they were my safety zone!
The bus continued along and gathered more people.  I didn't understand where we were going.  There were times we were driving past open land.  I saw garbage, abandoned buildings.  I started to get very anxious.  Fira didn't seem that far to me the night before!  Me and my new friends were at Fira.  How come I don't remember us driving out that long?  The bus clerk bully came by and collected the fare and gave out his receipts.  My nerves couldn't take it anymore.  I turned to the good looking boyfriend and asked him if this bus was going to Fira.  He barely glanced at me and said, "Yes".  I couldn't help myself.  I was getting more frightened by the moment.  I whispered to him, "Why is it taking so long?"  He slightly shrugged his shoulders but never made eye contact with me.  I could see his crystal blue eyes gaze away towards the front of the bus.  He was so cold to be unbelievably beautiful.  I was hurt by our interaction, mostly because in my mind this couple was suppose to be my safety zone.  I felt so alone.
Next thing you know, the bus swerved into a lot and then the madness began.  People got up and started walking out.  Ok, we're at Fira, but how come I don't remember it being so unattractive? 
There was an agent at a booth at the bus station.  People were coming up to her asking questions about schedules.  I went up and asked her which bus was the one to Oia and she pointed it out for me.  I looked over and saw a small group of people waiting nearby.  Because of my anxiety I needed to use the bathroom.  I saw a restroom sign at the lot.  There was a lady outside collecting money.  I noticed in Rome that public restrooms have a fee to use, so I knew this was a common thing in Europe.  I paid my fee and entered a room where the sink was.  There was a stall but once I got inside I didn't see a toilet, but more of a hole in the ground, resembling a shower setup but without the filter.  I was confused.  I walked out and asked if this was the bathroom and the lady replied, "Yeah, they're all like that."  Yikes! 
Afterwards I made my way to the small group waiting for the Oia bus and soon we started to board.  Off he went and another bus clerk collected our money.  We drove for another 15 minutes.  I looked out the window for reassurance that we were heading to the right direction.  The tourists here do not speak to one another.  I found it to be such a sad situation considering we're all on vacation.
At one point the view in Oia overwhelmed us.  The sun was beginning to set as we were driving up the road.  Unfortunately, it was hard to take a good picture with the bus moving.  I felt a sign of relief knowing we were almost there. 
I looked around and noticed again we were driving to deserted areas.  I was in disbelief it would take us this long to get there.  I had been in route in total for almost an hour!  It was past 7:45pm when the driver pulled into a lot.  There were a ton of people waiting to board.  Again the scene looked a bit chaotic.  I followed people off the bus and didn't know where to go.  People were heading to different directions.  Since now it was dark I grew concerned about how I was going to head back home.  I didn't want to ride that bus at nighttime.  I followed two young men walking away from the lot.  I had a hunch they knew where they were going since they seemed determined.  They are probably going to a happening area.  Sure enough, they led me to the infamous Oia skyline!  It was so beautiful even at night!  Everyone was taking pictures all around them.  I think I found the one end of the "strip" so I followed that pathway.  It led to endless shops and boutiques, from high end retail to souvenir shops.  There were art galleries and restaurants.  Because we were at a high altitude, the wind was gusty again.  I took cover by going in and out of shops.  There were so many beautiful handcrafted things that I couldn't stop admiring.  My stomach was beginning to bother me from the anxiety.  I couldn't help but rub it from time to time.  I walked into a jewelry shop and was browsing around when the salesman behind the cash register spoke to me.  "Did you eat something that gave you an upset stomach?" he asked.  "No.  It's just nerves," I replied.  "Why don't you go and have a glass of wine?" he suggested.  I smiled.  He seemed friendly enough.  I went up to him and asked him what time was the last bus out of Oia.  He asked one of his associates and she told me around 10pm.  I frowned.  I explained that I had just gotten there and was worried about how to get back to Perissa Beach.  "Do you have cabs here?  I haven't seen any around at all since I've been here."  "Of course we have cabs.  If you need a cab, we will call one for you," he explained.  What a sign of relief!  "That makes me feel a lot better!"  I told him.  He reassured me whenever I'm ready to leave, I can walk into an establishment and ask them to order me a cab and it shouldn't take no more than 15 minutes until it arrives.  "We don't have many cabs in Santorini but it shouldn't take long to get to you." 
I wish my anxiety magically disappeared from that moment, but of course it did not.  But I did feel a lot better that I could wander through Oia and enjoy my time there much longer.  I didn't want to miss out on anything.  I purchased some more souvenirs and was slowly beginning to feel like myself again.  I walked into a boutique and was greeted by a handsome salesman.  His smile made me feel it was safe enough for me to walk up to him and ask him where I should go for a drink around Oia.  He suggested Mary Kay's Bar which was right across the boutique from him.  I joked that I wanted a more lively place but he told me it would get busier later in the evening.  I looked over but there wasn't so many people inside.  I told myself I would check it out.  I continued to browse other shops until I found another friendly salesman smile back to me.  This boutique had beautiful Greek rugs which ran around 300 euros, as well as colorful handmade jewelry.  The friendly salesman and I striked up a conversation.  He lives in Athens but works in Santorini during the tourist season.  He explained it usually runs from March until October.  I asked what he did after the season is over and he told me he would have some time off and be in Athens.  I was curious to know what happened to the merchandise in the shops once everyone is off.  Did they lock up everything and leave the island?  Or do they ship everything off the island?  He said they pack up all the merchandise and it goes back to Athens where it will sit until the tourist season begins.  During the off-season months the boats coming to and from the islands will not be available to travelers.  They will be used to transport the merchandise and no one will be able to book any ferry rides.  I found this new information fascinating!  Who knew!
My new salesman friend gave me a little token of potpourri to take back to Chicago.  He said it's meant for good luck.  I found him to be one of the warmest people I've met in Santorini.  I will never forget his generosity.

Oia

Again with the sex cards...


Beautiful church!

Tourists shopping away!

Galleries galore








Donkey love





A flower shop



At this time it was 11pm and I felt it was a good time to head over to Mary Kay's bar.  The handsome gentleman from before was right.  Now the place was getting packed and the dj was playing Motown music to get the crowd going.  I found a seat by the dj and ordered a glass of white wine.  As usual, the waiter brought over my glass along with a side serving of nuts.  This to me is a lifesaver when traveling in Italy and  in Greece because it helps you curb your appetite.  The crowd was letting loose and people finally started dancing around.  I love being around this type of energy so I enjoyed watching everyone have fun.  I knew my new friends back at the restaurant were working until 1am so I figured I could hangout here until then.  I was having such a good time I decided to have another glass of wine.  People watching could be very entertaining.  There were a group of British tourists who were tearing up the dance floor.


Mary Kay's Bar

Gotta love the cigarette ads!


It was now nearing 12:30am.  I figured it was time for me to make my way over to Perissa Beach.  Now to find a cab (or a shop what will have someone call me one).  I walked back to my original path of where I began on the strip.  By now a lot of businesses were closed.  People were strolling around but I did not hear any English speakers.  I was getting nervous again.  I saw a restaurant that was closing up and I peaked inside to see if anyone would be able to help me.  Two staff members were in the kitchen and they looked preoccupied.  I walked back up to the beginning of the strip when I noticed a cab drove up.  I ran up and waved my arms like crazy before he continued to zoom away but he put on the brakes.  I was so relieved!  I ran up to him and then noticed a couple sitting in the back seat.  "Oh I'm sorry!  I didn't know you had someone.  Do you know where I can grab a cab?"  I see the pair of eyes staring back at me from the couple.  "Where are you going?" the driver asked.  "Perissa Beach?"  It took him a moment before he replied to get in.
I sat in front and said hi to the couple at the back.  The woman point blank asked me in English, "Why are you alone?"  Her tone made me worried because I did not want to give away that I was indeed alone, at least not to this cab driver.  I told them that I was waiting for my friends to get off from work and decided to kill some time in Oia.  She had an accent but her male friend was definitely American.  At one point she kept talking to the cab driver on where to go and told him she works "here" and not to try anything (which made me worried).  "Where do you work?" the cab driver asked suspiciously.  She replied that she worked at the hotel from where he picked her up from.  "What do you do?" he continued.  I could tell he was trying to figure her out.  "I work the concierge but I know Santorini; I know Greek!" she proclaimed.  He said something to her in Greek to test her and she quickly added, "Yes I understand.  I know what you said.  I understand Greek."  The driver still wasn't satisfied.  I grew very nervous because I did not know what I walked in on.  He asked her "What are you?  Where are you from??" and she answered that she was Italian (although she never revealed from what city).  The driver stayed silent and the couple continued their conversation.  It seemed to me that they had just met and that the male had been drinking.  She was fine and very firm with her answers.  They were going to Tango and that's when I told them that I had been there the night before.  Although I wanted to invite myself to their party, the woman never really paid much attention to me and they seemed more preoccupied with each other.  Once they got to Fira they quickly jumped out and the male companion paid the driver 20 euros and off they went.  I was worried about how much cash I had on me but prayed that it was enough for my ride.  He continued to drive until he stopped at a mart and asked me if it was ok for him to get some cigarettes.  I told him that's fine and he went inside.  I was SUPER nervous now that I was alone with him so I took pictures of whatever I could find at the front of the cab.  Everything was in Greek so I didn't know what I was looking at.  He came back into the car and off we went.  I decided to strike up a conversation with the driver so I wouldn't anxious.  I felt I was putting myself in a very vulnerable position being out this late by myself.  The cab driver looked pretty scruffy too, but he continue along.  I told him I was having a hard time looking for cabs and he said there are only 39 cabs in all of Santorini.  No wonder I didn't see them very often!  That explains a lot.  I already knew that the roads looked pretty deserted but now that it was nighttime it looked more scary to me.  There wasn't much lighting out on the road.  I held my guard and continued saying random things to the driver.  We finally reached the blocked off area at the beach where the shuttle bus had dropped me off the night before.  I was so happy to get out of that situation!  I ended up giving the driver 38 euros and explained to him that was all I had.  He took it and said fine, although I'm aware he was going to pocket the money regardless.  I ran down the strip and everything was pretty much closed.  It was 1:15am.  So much for that.  I went back to my hotel room.



Good bye Oia!  It was all worth it to see this at night!

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Day 4 Kalamata

Since we stayed up late the night before we finally got up around 11am.  We figured today we would spend the day at the beach, but first, coffee!  We got dressed and headed to the centro.  It was relatively quiet in town.  It was nice being able to see the hustle and bustle of fellow citizens.  For most Europeans, they were still on vacation.  We went to visit a friend who ran a coffee shop and I had my first Greek pie for breakfast.  Filled with cheese, the pocket was made of a croissant flaky bread.  You had your choice of ham, chicken or spinach.  Those things are filling!  We went to take a walk around the "old center" of Kalamata and I browsed through a couple of boutiques.  I must say, I was very impressed with the retail I encountered there.  Me and my friend discussed the differences between Italian and Greek style, but for the most part, Europeans DO have a "style" when it comes to dressing.  Since Kalamata is next to the sea, the look around town is more relaxed beach wear.  We chatted at a pub nearby while we people watched.  A couple of gypsies were working the corner and were harassing people taking money out of the ATM machine, as well as stopping patrons outside the cafe.  It's hard to watch especially when they involve children, but Simon assured me it's a bigger problem for them to solve.  Sometimes panhandling leads to petty theft, and eventually it grows to serious theft as well as the selling of weapons.  Yikes!



Hot Greek pies ready for breakfast!  I saw these everywhere at cafes.

People enjoying their morning coffee at the café.

Strolling around at il centro...

Retail therapy



We visited an old church at il centro.

One of the surprising things I found in Greece is seeing a variety of ethnic restaurants.  Here a Greek who use to live in Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood opened a Mexican restaurant in Kalamata.

A shot of masticha at a bar.


We headed back and grabbed our swimwear.  The beach was waiting for us!  We settled at a beach club and were escorted to our umbrellas.  I wasn't aware the Brazilian bikini was a huge favorite among Greeks.  I people watched for the most part during my time there.  When I finally had the nerve to dip in the water, the waves were consuming me.  I do not know how to swim very well, but the water felt great.



Time for some sun at Secada beach bar.


Since we spent most of the day there, we opted to checkout the sunset.  I took my time getting ready since I knew we were going to have dinner and stay out the rest of the evening.  Once I showered up we headed back to the old part of Kalamata and I had my first souveki.  It was delicious!!


Had my first souveki at this gem...

More fries!


Now to head back to Kastraki for the sunset.  Unfortunately it was not opened yet so we decided to take a quick drive back down to a nearby beach.  That's when we heard some dance music.  We stopped in a beach bar to checkout the action.  The sun was beginning to set but we had some clouds that ruined our view!  Oh well!













Panoramic view up at Kastraki...


Checking out another beach bar during the sunset.  The music was awesome!

We drove back to town but first we went to the bus station to checkout the schedule.  I was planning on leaving the following day.  We headed to his place to check on his mother who lived upstairs.  She was a handful!  Right away she handed me an ice cream candy bar and started pouring me a glass of orange juice!  Apparently she thought I was too thin.  She was a riot!
We met up with his sister who just came home from work and discussed the bus schedule along with the schedule for the ferry heading out to Santorini.  Looks like I will be catching the 8am bus.  
It's Friday night and we had the itch to go out.  Since his sister worked all week she wanted to unwind as well.  We headed back to the centro for a glass of wine.  We talked about everything which I loved.  It was a change of pace for me.  
The next day we got up early and Simon drove me to the bus station.  I am happy that my friend is doing well back at his hometown.  He's a good man who loves his city and is now getting involved within the community to help improve the conditions in Kalamata.  I am confident he will be fine.    

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Day 3 Kalamata

Of course the night before I had to checkout I had bad insomnia.  I woke up at 3am in a panic and I couldn't fall back asleep til 7am!  My mind wouldn't let me rest.  I started to get nervous because I was going to take a bus out to Kalamata.  A million thoughts rushed to my head.  Luckily I got up in time to catch my free breakfast at the restaurant.  I drank my coffee so I could be focused on packing my things.  I seriously need to stop shopping.  I'm having a hard time closing my luggage!  Regardless, I got my 2nd wind once I got out of the shower.  Time to be on full alert because I was going in unknown territory.
Don't get me wrong.  So far Athens was great to me and that's what I think my problem is.  Because of how my mind works, I worried that I was going to have a bad experience at the bus station.  Since I was messaging my friend from Italy and Simon at the same time, I calmed down a bit.  Simon assured me that the bus station had free wifi, and thank god he was right.  The hotel ordered a cab for me and off I went.  Of course, the cab driver didn't speak a lick of English.  It's terrifying trusting someone you can't speak to drive you somewhere.  We tried to exchange some words, and that's when I got a good vibe from him.  I assumed he was asking me where was I going, and I answered Kalamata.  His eyes lit up.  He was the 2nd person who did that to me so far.  The 1st guy was a man working at a souvenir shop.  He told me most tourists would not head that way but he also reassured me that it was beautiful.  So far so good.
I walked into the station and found the ticket booth for Kalamata.  I walked up to the guy and paid for a return ticket fee.  That ticket was good for 3 months.  Not bad for 40 €.  The ticket man circled the station where my bus was going to pull into.  Station 30-31 was where I was suppose to go.  Luckily a priest walked up behind me and asked for a ticket to Kalamata also.  I knew to follow him since he was going to where I was heading.  
Our bus was not there yet and we both sat by our stations.  There were gypsies everywhere trying to sell us pens(?) and wouldn't leave people alone.  I was very nervous.  The bus station did have wifi and I kept messaging my friend in Italy.  She warned me that gypsies usually work in packs and to watch my belongings.  I never saw any staff walking around.  No assistants anywhere.  Again I'm assuming most tourists don't travel via bus and usually head to the port to visit the islands. 
I asked a mother and daughter if this was the bus to Kalamata and the girl replied back yes.  She seemed young, like a teenager.  Her English was broken but at least she understood me.  
A man helped me find my seat on the bus and off we went.  Luckily no one sat next to me but there was a shady character that did managed to get on the bus.  He had no luggage and was very skinny and dirty.  I think he was homeless.  He wouldn't leave these two guys alone.  Even though they spoke Greek, I think he kept asking them where this bus was heading to.  He had some screws loose.  In the end it turned out to be more of a joke with people laughing at him.  I just continued watching the show.  The bus driver intervened when he started coming up to him and disrupting the ride.  This bus was an express and was not stopping anywhere but Kalamata.   
I did managed to knock out during the 3 hour bus ride.  As we pulled in I saw my friend waiting for me.  I was relieved.  I made it to Kalamata!
I use to work for Simon.  I've known him since I was 16 years old.  We worked together at a parking company and he was my boss.  He eventually moved back to Kalamata back in 2009.  He drove me around and was excited to show me his city.  But first, let's eat!

Kalamata!

He took me to the coastal side of town and we went to a friend's restaurant to have lunch.  Again, since I was arriving late in the afternoon, it wasn't the ideal time to eat.  We had the restaurant to ourselves.  Staff were in the midst of changing shifts.  It was a good time for us to catch up to where we were in our lives.  The last time I ran into Simon was back in Chicago at the Iguana Café with my ex.  So much has happened since then.  I ordered lamb for lunch and it came with a side order of fries.  I wasn't aware that Greeks love fries.

Catching up at lunch...

I was craving meat so I ordered lamb. 

Afterwards, we took another drive around the city before we settled back at his place.  There was a big soccer game in the evening and we decided to sneak in a siesta.  I finally took a shower as well.  That bus ride had no air conditioning!
Kalamata is very humid because of the sea, more so than Athens!  Although my friend Simon does not smoke, smoking among Greeks is everywhere.  I suspect that 70% of Greeks smoke. 
We made our way to a café along the beach to watch the game.  I was still pretty full from lunch so I passed on dinner.  The café was packed of men, and I was the only woman present.  It threw me off but Simon reassured me that most women just aren't into soccer.  Women do socialize but would rather be at another type of bar that would cater to their needs.

I have to admit, I was a little intimidated being in a room full of men who looked so serious, but this soccer game was a BIG deal!


The game was intense.  The Olympiacos defeated Portugal's Arouca 2-1.  I enjoyed watching the crowd's reaction to the game.  I felt I had witnessed a huge passion of theirs.  Afterwards we took a ride up to a Kastraki, a castle-built restaurant and lounge that overlooks the city and sea.  The view is amazing!  We continued to have drinks but then I was tempted to try the infamous Greek yogurt.  Since I skipped out on dinner I decided to indulge.  They served it in a big bowl (of course) with shaved almonds and a side jar of honey.  It was delish!  It was whipped thoroughly and very cold.  We stayed for a while.  So far Kalamata was gorgeous!





Our seats for the evening!  This view was breathtaking!!



My friend Simon mentioned that certain places in Greece will not kick people out even if it's after hours.  They consider it rude...


 



GREEK YOGURT!!